moodlite - Coming soon

New design- triangle, hexagon, small triangle

pflug · 105


  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 1
    • Likes: +0/-0
    • View Profile
on: February 11, 2021, 08:56:58 AM

1st of all I would like to thank the original concept designer
for all there efforts and ideas - THANK YOU

I was intrigued with the concepts and I think I have some ideas that may improve the design.

Therefore I have come up with some ideas and designs.

To connect more tiles, in more different ways, I propose the following:

A) 2 Connector-blocks at each triangle side.

B) After some research I think I found a cheap solution for the new connection concept.
   Using cheap available LED connectors found for RGB strips:
   4-pin needle connectors and and 4 Pin females connectors
   2* 4-pins used per Connector block
   *  2 per triangle side
   * 3
   = 12 per triangle)
    The connectors layout will be symmetric and consist of a total of 8-pins per connector-block
   All contacts (+, -, D-in, D-out) are doubled and symmetric (see picture)
   This should increase the power capability per connector-block to at least 4 Amps maybe more.

   Using a double sided PCB to distribute the DC supply Voltage to all sides and connectors.
   This should make wiring a bit less messy
C) Increasing the tile supply voltage to ~24VDC
   Using a cheap/small 3A "step down buck" per tile to supply 5V or 12V for the LEDs.
   Like this one:
D) Currently I am busy with the following shapes (like found at Nanoleaf)
   1. triangles         (3 LEDs per corner    = 9 LEDs)
   2. Hexagons         (2 LEDs per corner    =12 LEDs)
   3. small triangles    (1 per corner       = 3 LEDs)
   4. square tiles??  (connection should not be a problem)

By using 3 LED-s per triangle corner, I estimated the max Amps per triangle tile to max. ~500mA resulting in ~2.5W per tile.
With a 24V supply and around 4A, the supply can deliver 100W max.
This means one can at least connect up to 50 triangles!

For my project I ordered:
SK6812 (RGBW) 5V IP30 60 LEDs per/m.
Hint: Make sure that there is enough copper track left "AFTER" cutting for soldering.
(I had problems with WS2812B that I had on hand, leaving only about .5mm for soldering!) 

Please have a look at the pics and share your thought and maybe other ideas.

The development is still in progress and might still take a couple of weeks or month ;-)
« Last Edit: February 11, 2021, 12:23:44 PM by pflug »


SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk